Fes Solo Travel Guide: Navigating the Medina Alone
While Marrakech is Morocco’s most photographed city, Fes is the more profound one, and it is precisely the kind of slow, careful exploration that independent travel is meant for. The old medina, Fes el Bali, is the largest car-free urban area in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing about 9,000 to 9,400 narrow streets spread over approximately three square kilometers. Although it may seem intimidating in writing, it turns out to be one of the most rewarding places in the country to visit on your own once you have worked out the one simple trick that actually makes it possible to navigate.
The One Thing That Makes Fes Click
Fes el Bali is situated on a slope, and that one fact is what ensures that you never actually feel lost. Just beyond Bab Boujloud, the well-known entrance to the medina, the road divides into two parallel lanes, Talaa Kebira, the steeper one, and Talaa Sghira, the less steep one. Both of these streets run downhill and converge on the Qarawiyyin area, Place R’cif, and the river beneath it. Traveling downhill takes you towards the river and to the centre of the medina, while going uphill brings you back to Bab Boujloud. When you understand this, and you usually do within your first few hours, the labyrinth ceases to seem like a maze and instead begins to feel like a city that has its own kind of logic.
It is worth knowing the name of Talaa Kebira, for it is the longest and most important street in the medina and forms the heart of its commercial activity, copper-smiths, food vendors, sellers of textiles, and the access points to a number of major monuments all having direct access to it.
Your First Day Will Feel Overwhelming, and That Is Normal
The streets become narrower the further in you go, with donkeys and mules passing alongside you as they carry goods since most things with engines cannot go through these narrow passages, and shopkeepers shout from the small workshops situated on every corner. This situation is truly disorienting for someone visiting the medina for the first time and almost everybody experiences it. As people who know Fes well will admit, it is not a good idea to attempt to fully explore the medina on day one; instead you should walk with a sense of curiosity, make use of landmarks, gates, fountains and shops that are easily recognised, rather than trying to keep a mental map, and have confidence that the city will begin to make sense after a few hours rather than after a few minutes.
Should You Hire a Guide?
For at least the first half of the day, it’s truly worth it. The guide you hire is licensed and has been officially approved by Morocco’s Ministry of Tourism, so that he can help you get smoothly around the alleys and make sure you do in fact see the landmarks you want to see rather than just passing them by without noticing. Ask about the price before hand, and after you’ve got your bearings, the majority of single travelers feel at ease in carrying on by themselves on the second day, having a clear mental map and the confidence to get pleasantly lost on their own.
What to Actually See
The Chouara Tannery is not only the biggest but also the most well-known of the three tanneries in Fes and it is still truly operational with the craftsmen using the colourful stone dyeing vats in a way that is essentially unchanged from century upon century. Entry is free and you will probably be given a sprig of mint to hold under your nose, so take it because the smell is strong. Al Qarawiyyin, which was established in the 9th century, is regarded as one of the oldest universities in the world that has been continuously in operation, and although the interior is reserved for worshippers and students, the exterior of the building and the area around it are worth visiting. The Bou Inania and Al Attarine madrasas display remarkable tilework and cedar carving from the Marinid period, offering a calmer and more reflective atmosphere as a contrast to the bustling souks outside. As for viewing the sunset, the Marinid Tombs, located on the hillside above the medina, provide a truly spectacular panoramic view of the whole old city.
How Long to Stay
For a visit to be meaningful, two full days are the practical minimum: one day to spend in the medina, at the tanneries, and in the madrasas, and another day for the viewpoints, the gates, and just strolling without any particular plan. If you have three days, you can include a day trip, typically to the Roman ruins at Volubilis, and take a more leisurely and less hurried approach when browsing the souks.
Where to Stay for Easier Navigation
For a visitor who is going to Fes el Bali or who is staying near Bab Boujloud for the first time, you will experience the true atmosphere of the old city without having to face too much difficulty in getting access. More than people realize, it is important to have a riad with a quiet interior courtyard, because the area of the medina can be quite intense and crowded during the day and having a calm place to go to makes a real difference. A key point is that location is more important than just the neighbourhood; some riads may be very beautiful but are situated in deep narrow alleys which are in fact very hard to find if you are carrying luggage or if you arrive late, so you should check the exact location and not just the general area, and also find out whether the riad can arrange for someone to meet you at the nearest gate that is accessible.
When convenience is more important than the atmosphere—especially if you have an early train connection—Ville Nouvelle, the part of the city that was built during the French protectorate period, has a quieter and easier-to-navigate network of streets, cafés, and restaurants, since the town’s railway station is situated there.
Getting In From the Airport
Fes Saiss International Airport is located approximately 30 minutes’ drive from the city, and taking a taxi is still the most practical option since at present there is no train or coach service that goes directly from the airport, the fare usually being between 250 and 300 dirhams.
A Note From Living Here
Not getting your head around Fes should not be regarded as a failure in navigation since it is actually an integral part of the experience, and the city does reward those tourists who choose to accept this rather than try to overcome it. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes because the ground is uneven everywhere, dress in a modest manner as a sign of respect for the local environment, and allow yourself the freedom to stroll about without having a specific destination in mind for at least part of your trip.
Quick Answers
To prevent yourself from getting lost in the Fes medina, you should note that the medina is situated on a slope, so going downhill takes you towards the river and the Qarawiyyin district, while going uphill brings you back to Bab Boujloud; once you have established which direction is downhill, you will never actually be lost.
Is a guide necessary in Fes? Not for the whole of your trip, but it is well worth having a licensed guide for your first half day in order to get oriented before travelling on your own.
How many days should I stay in Fes? Two full days is the lowest realistic figure, while three days give you the opportunity for a day trip and allow for a more leisurely exploration of the souks.
Is Fes safe for solo travelers? Yes, although the medina’s maze-like layout can be disorienting it is not dangerous and in this case standard city awareness is as necessary as it would be in any other busy tourist area.
The way to get from Fes airport to the medina is by taxi, since there is no direct train or coach service linking the airport and the fare usually ranges from 250 to 300 dirhams for a journey of about 30 minutes.